Sunday, February 22, 2009

Yet another Star-Wars-related YouTube video...

There has got to be something odd about a blog that contains approximately equal parts knitting patterns and Star Wars jokes. Ya think?

Presenting - the Evil Empire Theme (Imperial March?) played on Tesla coils. No, really.

Sunday, January 4, 2009

Best YouTube video EVER!



Okay, let's hope this works... it's a YouTube video of one guy doing four different musical tracks of Star-Wars-based lyrics to the tunes of various John Williams soundtracks. It is AMAZING!

Monday, December 22, 2008

Angel Wings

angelwingsfinished

I made up this pattern because I couldn't find a single angel pattern on Ravelry with wings of this traditional shape - just ruffles or bow-tie shapes. These wings can be sewn on any angel or doll of the right size.

Can be made with any size yarn, with hook to match. Sample uses worsted-weight acrylic and US 8 (5mm) hook; each wing is about 2 inches tall.

Chain 5, join with slip stitch to form ring. Ch 2, turn. Work 11 double crochets (American) into ring over yarn tail, join with sl st into top ch. Pull on yarn tail to snug up the "wheel". Work should now look like photograph A below. This is the top rounded part of the angel wing.

angelwings1

Now chain 7. Hold the work with the wheel on the left, chain at the bottom right, so that it looks like photograph B below - the Vs all point in the same direction, wrapping around the wheel. This makes a much prettier edge than if there was a sharp bend between wheel and chain.

angelwings2

Single crochet (American) into 2nd ch from hook, then sc into next 4 chs for a total of 5 scs. Join to "wheel" with sl st, between the first and second dc up from where the chain joins - photograph C below shows the crochet hook inserted and ready to make the sl st.

angelwings3

Now sl st between the second and third dcs up from the chain - that is, into the gap between dcs just above the gap you worked into in photograph C. This is the equivalent of a turning chain, moving the working yarn up to where you need it for the next row. Work should now look like photograph D below (which looks a little drunken because I had to take it upside down to show what I wanted to show). Turn.

angelwings4

Now look at what is now the back of the work - the side shown in photograph D above. Just below the hook is a whole row of little V-chain-like things. The top two are those slip stitches you just made - ignore them. The third one is a single crochet - skip that. Sc into the next one, the second sc from the wheel, which is the fourth little V-chain from the hook. Got that?

Now insert hook into third sc, draw up a loop, then into 4th sc, draw up a loop, now yarn over hook and draw through all 3 loops on hook. You have decreased one st. Ch 1, turn.

Sc into second sc from hook - that is, the one right next to the wheel. Sl st into the gap between the third and fourth dcs from where the chain joined the wheel - this may be a little hard to actually count, since there's no visible jog between chain and wheel now, but it's right next to where your hook is anyway at this point. Photograph E below shows the hook inserted in the correct place.

angelwings5

Cut the yarn and pull the end out, turning that last sl st into a "finish off". Weave in ends.

This pattern copyright December 2008 Maria Grace McClamrock, aka "telcontar" on Ravelry.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Knitted Mesh Backpack Pattern

mesh backpack, full of books

US 8 straight needles.
5 oz Red Heart Super Saver yarn--yeah, I know all the other bag patterns say "cotton", but this is my book bag. I want indestructible. I used the Sunshine Print colorway.
Crochet hook, whatever size you prefer (I used a G because that's all I have).

These instructions give about a 12"x12" backpack, empty. It'll stretch quite a ways, so don't make it too big if you don't want lumbar problems.

Cast on 39 sts using long-tail cast on; purl one row. (This gives a sturdier edge.)

Row 1: *K2tog, yo; rep from * across, end k1.

Row 2 and all WS rows: purl.

Row 3: K1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * across.

Work in patt till piece measures 24" long. Use this stretchy bind-off: k1, *yo, pass k st over yo, k1, pass yo over k st; rep from * to end. Do NOT cut yarn or fasten off.

Place last loop on crochet hook. Fold piece in half, placing CO and BO edges together. Crochet side edge together; I used the following method, which produces a good stretchy edge.

*Sc in hole below CO edge. Ch 1. Sc in hole below BO edge. Ch 1. Rep from * down, alternating sides and placing 1 sc in each hole along edges, with a ch between each one. It'll look a little bulgy when the bag is empty, but believe me, you'll need the flexibility when you fill it.

mesh backpack, flat

When you run out of holes to single-crochet in, do NOT fasten off; ch 1, turn. Work 7 single-crochet sts back along joined edge--spreading them out more than normal is a good idea. Ch 1, turn.

Work even in single crochet over these 7 sts until strap measures about 12-14 inches. When it's long enough, fasten free end of strap to CO edge by crocheting into strap and CO edge at the same time.

Before fastening the strap, you need to be sure it's twisted the right way; it's hard to explain. Hold the backpack against your back as if you're wearing it, and make sure the strap lies (more or less) flat against your body all the way up.

Once the strap is attached, you can finally fasten off, leaving a nice longish end to weave in--remember, this critter is going to take some hard wear. You don't want the strap giving way because your fasten-off came undone.

Now join the yarn at the other top corner, on the side you haven't seamed up yet, and repeat the whole process from "Crochet side edge together", way up ⇑ there. Weave in those two ends, and you're done!

You can make an iCord drawstring if you want, especially if you'll only be carrying light loads, but you don't really need it. This is a very well-behaved backpack.

mesh backpack, bundled up

To bundle it up like this picture, with a handy loop to hang it from your bike handlebars, just fold it in half--either way, doesn't matter--then roll it up so the long edge curls around. (How am I supposed to describe this stuff? sigh...) Twist one strap around it, rather like a ponytail elastic, and the other strap forms the loop.

Copyright (insofar as a mesh bag pattern can ever be copyright) August 2008 by Maria Grace McClamrock, aka "telcontar" on Ravelry.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Mitered-Square Baby Bonnet

bonnet_on_dog

Okay, this dog was not inconvenienced in any way in the taking of this picture. When I actually photographed the bonnet, my Styrofoam skull GK was wearing it. However, several people have asked me to change the picture, so Kate (propertrappings on Ravelry) kindly Photoshopped me this doggie picture. There will hopefully be a proper baby picture at some future date...

This bonnet is worked from side to side, using mitered-square shaping. The ruffle is crocheted on afterwards.

Yarn: About 1.75 oz of Bernat Super Value or other worsted-weight yarn. Needles: US 8 DPNs and straights. (Note: KnitPicks Options needle tips in the appropriate size make great DP substitutes!) Hook: I used a G because that's what I had. Use whatever size works for you with your yarn.

Measure recipient's head, under the chin, over the ears and top of the head. Babies have incredibly large heads, so don't skip this step! Sample sizing is given for a 17-inch measurement, with basic instructions to adapt.

CO 3 sts on DPNs. Work iCord for 6-8 inches. Mark middle stitch.

Row 1 and odd-numbered rows: K to just before marked st, e-loop inc, k marked st, e-loop inc, k to end. (Those familiar with the ubiquitous Baby Surprise Jacket will recognize this procedure. They will also recognize that I can't even think "Baby Surprise Jacket" without going all Elizabeth Zimmermann in my language. sigh...)
Row 2 and even rows: Knit.

Work mitered square as established till centerline measures 5 inches (or a little less than 1/3 of baby's head circumference, as measured above). Work even in garter st for another 5 inches (or another 1/3 of head circumference). Mark middle st.

Odd rows: K to 1 st before marked st, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k to end.
Even rows: Knit.

Work mitered square as established till 3 sts remain. Work iCord on these 3 sts till length matches first iCord. Bind off and weave in ends.

With crochet hook (duh--what else would you crochet with? sorry) join new yarn and work 1 double-crochet in every garter ridge. Ch 3, turn.

Work dc in base of turning chain. Work 2 dc in every dc across. Ch 1, turn.

Work ruffle edge, 1 st in each st below, in this patt: single crochet, *double crochet, triple crochet, double crochet, single crochet, rep from * across. It won't quite come out even--fudge it! Fasten off and weave in the end.

Put it on the baby in question. I promise you, it'll look cuter than it does on GK the Skull.

Oh yeah--this pattern copyright August 2008 by Maria Grace McClamrock, aka "telcontar" on Ravelry, aka "Maria Grace" on the Ravelry Designers.

Friday, August 8, 2008

Ravelympics on YouTube!

Okay, I admit it--I'm posting this mainly because the music is so awesome! If anybody knows what that music is, will they please tell me?

Friday, August 1, 2008

Lego Knitting Machine

This is the most utterly incredible contraption I have ever seen--a motorized I-Cord knitter built entirely out of Legos. Somebody posted a link to the video in the GeekCraft group on Ravelry this morning, and I just had to blog it.